Gazing from a monastery far above the port city of Thessaloniki, Greece, onlookers are met with endless vistas of the Aegean Sea and the swoops and songs of gulls.
The second-largest Greek city is full of unexpected charm, apparent in the peacocks kept by the orthodox monks — their colorful feathers symbolized eternal life in the early church. Walk along narrow streets on steep hills and you might find a quaint cafe where you can sip on a Greek coffee and talk; or, as the ancients called it, philosophize.
Heading down into Thessaloniki proper, Byzantine churches dot a landscape of towering buildings and bustling restaurants. The city’s storied history, from the Pauline age at the turn of the first millennium to the destruction wrought by the Second World War, is at once fascinating and devastating. To get a glimpse of what it offers, don’t miss the Hagia Sophia, Arch of Hadrian and the nearby Rotunda, the White Tower and the Jewish and Byzantine museums.
A key site for pilgrims along the Greek route of St. Paul, which stretches from nearby Philippi down to Athens, a stroll through Thessaloniki will yield beautiful Greek Orthodox architecture at almost every corner, each building complemented with centuries of stories. Depart from the fast-paced hustle of an average Georgetown day and take it slow, stopping often to think, snap a photo or grab a snack.
After a long day of learning in the land of knowledge, stop by Petrakaki Square in the Katouni area and enjoy traditional Greek mezze plates like fried cheeses, souvlaki (grilled meats) and loukoumades (fried donuts). When in Greece, meals are communal — don’t expect to order your own plate, but partake in the joy of connecting over a shared dining (and wining, for that matter) experience.
Home to Aristotle University, Thessaloniki is a college town of sorts with lots of young people. Along its bay and promenade, a number of swanky bars offer a lively environment to spend the night chatting, dancing and enjoying the Greek way of life. You’ll be surprised how many locals stay out until the wee hours of the morning, only to get up and go to work the next day.
Even if you’re similarly tired after a night out, get up early and watch the sunrise over the tranquil Aegean, frappe (whipped iced coffee) in hand if necessary. Maybe a couple. After that, explore any of the aforementioned sites and museums before taking a day trip to nearby Kavala, the tomb of Philip of Macedon or the archaeological site at Philippi.
This hidden corner of Greece is often overlooked for the allure of Athens and the windswept islands — which are equally astounding and unskippable. But to get the fullest taste of an iconic country, head north and breathe in the salt air, syncretic cuisine and captivating tales of Thessaloniki.
