Malaysia is often overlooked by the masses who flock to Indonesia, Thailand and Singapore for the holidays, but the country has more to offer than most realize. Situated between mainland Southeast Asia and the Indonesian archipelago, Malaysia has been a crossroads of civilizations for centuries due to its strategic geography. It was once an outpost for the Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial empires, before gaining independence in 1957.
However, I arrived there less ceremoniously than the British, recovering from a red-eye flight from Sydney and lacking coffee. After touching down in Kuala Lumpur, I rushed to the bus station and lucked out, winning the last seat on a local bus to the coastal outpost of Malacca. Picture me as I sprinted out of the airport to catch a bus I’ve never seen before with my sunglasses fogged over from the humidity. For all its uniqueness, one thing Malaysia has in common with the rest of Southeast Asia is its muggy climate.
Malacca, a town rich in history, served as the hub of the peninsula’s colonial settlements and features brick-red Dutch churches and Portuguese fortifications. I woke up at 5:00 AM, not because I’m a go-getter, but due to the time difference, and was rewarded with several hours of steady rain and gray skies. To kill time, I ate breakfast twice, first at a vegetarian Malaysian spot and again at a Chinese dim sum outpost in town. At both places, I was the only non-local and English speaker. The rest of my time in Malacca was spent enjoying better weather and exploring the town’s historic sites and riverside pathways before catching a bus from Melaka Sentral Station to Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur.
Nowhere is Malaysia’s multiculturalism more apparent than in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s largest city and a commercial hub. The city is cleaner and safer than most neighboring country capitals — almost as modern as Singapore, yet far less expensive. Despite the growing prevalence of digital payment systems in Malaysia, it is still a cash economy, so I exchanged some Australian dollars for the local ringgit. Cash in hand, I hit the night markets in town.
Jalan Alor Food Street, a feast for all the senses, is an endless parade of vendors peddling grilled meats and vegetables, exotic fruits and sweet treats. The cuisine in Malaysia is an interesting mix of Chinese, Indian and other influences, never lacking in complexity or spice. For dinner, I tried laksa soup and roti canai and enjoyed fresh mangosteen and the iconic durian fruit for dessert.
Durian, an infamous-yet-beloved treat in Southeast Asia, is most notable for its strong odor, and it’s not uncommon to see signs in hotels and cabs prohibiting the possession of the fruit. To me, the fruit has a custard-like texture and bittersweet flavor, and I actually liked it quite a bit. Kuala Lumpur’s equatorial humidity also made me crave a cold drink, so I chose freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice, but sugarcane juice is also highly recommended.
On day two in Kuala Lumpur, I visited the Petronas Twin Towers, a national icon and, at one point, the tallest building in the world. The towers are situated in a lush urban park atop a luxury shopping mall. In the evenings, the towers are lit up bright white and there is a waterworks show in the park.
I didn’t want to leave Kuala Lumpur without seeing the Batu Caves Hindu temple either. Situated just north of the city center, the massive cliffside caves house a temple complex and are guarded by a 140-foot-tall golden statue of Lord Shiva, the god of destruction (for whom my little sister is aptly named). I climbed the colorful ascending staircase to the mouth of the cave and temple entrance, all the while keeping an eye out for the mischievous monkeys that roam the grounds. Inside, visitors can find various colorful temple structures and kitschy souvenir shops.
Before leaving town, I made quick stops at Merdeka Square and Thean Hou Temple back in the city center, which were both great sites to get more insight into the history and demography of Malaysia. After this, I readied my sleep mask and half-read copy of “The Old Man and the Sea” for the long flight back to Sydney and hopped in an overpriced cab to Kuala Lumpur International Airport.
