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One night last winter, a group of friends and I strolled about Chinatown looking for low-cost Asian fare. If you’ve been to the neighborhood — and I hope that you have — you know that Chinatown is full of hole-in-the-wall places advertising cheap food with bright neon lights that starkly contrast the restaurants’ homey interiors.

We happened upon one such spot, choosing it over the others based on the incredible number of high ratings and favorable reviews the owners had proudly displayed in the doorway.

When we entered Eat First, we were seated quickly and given two teapots to start. The menus in front of us had plenty of (mostly Americanized) options, but the exotic specials written on paper pasted on the wall behind us looked much better.

We ordered five or six dishes to share, picking the strangest and most interesting-sounding that we could find, and made our way through a good half dozen pots of tea.

The appetizers that came first were fantastic.

I had eaten lotus root in China, so I was curious to try it again back in the District. The vegetable looked strange enough to scare off half our table, but those of us that shared it were happy to find it surprisingly tasty given its odd shape and color. The egg drop soup was also wonderful — thick, salty and creamy with crispy fried wontons on the side to give it a satisfying crunch. Especially in the cold, I appreciated its simple, comforting goodness.

Our entrees, unfortunately, were hit-and-miss. The General Tso’s bean curd came in a thick, tangy sauce with a spicy kick, and the duck meat was tender and succulent, but some of the chicken pieces were weirdly chewy. The bok choy in a sausage and veggies dish was overcooked to a sad, limp state. We left satisfied (those sugary fortune cookies always put me in a good mood) but of course, a consistent meal would have been much more enjoyable.

Speaking of consistency, my return visit to Eat First for lunch was strikingly dissimilar to the first, and I don’t mean that in a good way. While most items I tried last year were tasty, my lunch was not. Of the Americanized items available with the lunch special ($4 to $6 for an entree with rice), I chose General Tso’s chicken. The chicken was breaded too thickly, making the dish heavy, one-dimensional and altogether unsatisfying.  The price was right, but still, your average takeout place could make the same meal better, and I could make it both better and cheaper at home in my own kitchen.

Eat First is clearly a place where diners are rewarded for taking risks. Picking authentic items off the special menu posted on the wall is a great way to try new and delicious dishes you won’t find in many other places; but from my experience, playing it safe is likely to disappoint.